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Oenologist Profile:

Jean León

 
 

Jean León & Jaume Rovira

Oenologists for the stars

Photo of Jean León and Oenologist, Jaume Rovira.
Oenologists: Jean León and Jaume Rovira

 

The story of oenologist and entrepreneur, Jean León, is a tale of adventure and glamour fit for the silver-screen. His successful life, studded with many achievements - the pinnacle of which being the founding and presiding over the famous Jean León winery in the Penedès region of Spain (Catalonia), came only after years of hard-traveling, dreaming and risk-taking.

At age 19, León left Spain with a single suitcase and almost no money. He traveled first to Paris, and then stowed-away on a merchant vessel, which brought him to New York where he worked illegally for a while bussing tables. In an effort to ease his immigration problems, he moved on to California. It was when he reached Hollywood that his luck began to change. And it began at the Villa Capri, the famous restaurant which was owned by Frank Sinatra and Joe di Maggio, where León was offered a job.

It was at this time that he changed his name – a common practice of young people seeking the limelight in Hollywood at the time - and began fraternizing with the restaurant’s clientele. This group of regulars included Grace Kelly, Natalie Wood, Julie Garland, Debbie Reynolds, and James Dean. León’s friendship with James Dean flourished and the two decided to be business partners to achieve a mutual dream: founding the most luxurious restaurant in Hollywood. Dean and León worked together passionately on the plans for what was to become La Scala. Unfortunately, Dean was killed in an auto accident before the two cut the ribbon on their new restaurant. León, however much aggrieved by the loss of his friend, went ahead and opened La Scala to a storm of praise.

The restaurant became an immediate success. Its tables were filled every night with Hollywood’s most elite actors and directors. Among La Scala’s regulars were Humphrey Bogart, Fred Astaire, Marlon Brando, Gary Cooper and Marilyn Monroe.

In search of the world’s greatest wine…
 

León’s ambitions did not end with the success of La Scala. His status in gastronomic circles increased and he earned the reputation in Hollywood of being a great connoisseur of fine wines. But he never found a wine that was, in his opinion, ‘perfect’. And so he decided to create one. He left California and traveled the world in search of a perfect plot of land, finally settling on 150 hectares of chalky, clay earth on a southern-facing slope in Spain’s Catalonia region.

Here, León teamed up with oenologist, Jaume Rovira, whose remarkable talent for wine matched his own and the two began the Jean León Winery. The local vines were eradicated from the land, and in their place, León planted imported grafts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, which came from prestigious French wineries such as Château Lafitte-Rothschild, La Lagune and Corton Charlemagne. With this, León went down in history as being the first person to plant foreign noble varietals in Spain.

Rovira’s successful innovations equally gave to the prestige of the Jean León Winery. His personal formula for growing the best wine:

Acquire the very best vines from your favorite French Chateaux, double the number of vines per hectacre and half the production, improve aeration and exposure to sun. Ferment and macerate the red wine must in wide vats for greater extraction of color and tannins. Malolactic fermentation to take care of any unpleasant acidity. Lots of different oaks, American, French and Hungarian, long, beautiful corks that seal better and reduce the amount of air in the bottle.

As León’s business bloomed, his health diminished. And in 1993, realizing his death was imminent, he left Spain and sailed alone on his boat until his death in 1995. The winery went into the care of Rovira.

Rovira is now the sole Oenologist working for the Jean León Winery, which continues to produce award-winning wines. And though he implements the old methods instituted decades ago by he and León together, he is constantly on the lookout for new technological advancements to make the best wines possible. Rivora’s extraordinary innovation makes the Jean León Winery one to watch in the future.

 

 

 


 

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